澳洲美食

Australian Cuisine: Mix and Match

So, what kind of food would you expect to find at a place called Woolloomooloo? If I told you, Australian cuisine, you probably still wouldn't have a clue as to what you might be eating. Kangaroo meat, you say? Not at all. Rather, at this new, spacious restaurant not far from the Bastille, you'll be treated to a look at modern Australian cuisine, one that draws from neighboring cultures as well as that of ethnic groups that have settled there, including Italian, Vietnamese and Thai, with a nod to the nation's British ancestry. What's more, it's one spot in town that you'll be treated to the entire panoply of wonderful wines from Australian and New Zealand, treasures rarely seen in France.

The food at Woolloomooloo (an aboriginal word of many meanings) is more than gastronomically correct: Quite simply, it reflects the unpretentious, generous spirit of the Australians. Diners bent on finding a unified cuisine here will do better to go elsewhere, but if you're in the mood for mixing and matching, skipping from spring rolls to polenta to sticky pudding to apple crumble, you'll have a fine time indeed.

If it's on the menu, sample the Vietnamese spring rolls, delightfully fresh, light, and filled with tender morsels of roast duck. The rolls can be dunked into a chili dipping sauce, making for a perky, wake-up-the -palate starter.

For a pleasantly modern touch on a great classic, try their Caesar salad, a generous tangle of greens seasoned with Parmesan, anchovies, and a poached egg, all tossed with a garlic mayonnaise.

The waiter suggested that the best dish on the menu that night was the Thai-style duck leg with red curry sauce, and he sure was right! Imagine a traditional French confit of duck, bathed in an ultra-fiery curry sauce, all soothed with a fragrant mound of jasmine rice.

Equally delicious—and served piping hot from a large ceramic covered dish—was the braised veal knuckle with preserved lemons and lentils, a comforting stew that hit the spot on a chilly spring evening.

The decor and service are bright and spirited, and the lack of professionalism among the staff is made up for with friendliness and the welcoming, casual air.

Some great white from the wine list includes New Zealand's top Cloudy Bay 1994 sauvignon blanc at 250 francs (about $50) and 1992 chardonnay (240 francs) as well as Cullen's 1993 Margaret River sauvignon blanc (200 francs). Treats among the reds include two particularly well-priced wines, Penfolds?Bin 128 easy-drinking 1991 shiraz (150 francs) and Cape Mentelle's magnificent 1992 cabernet merlot (145 francs).
Woolloomooloo, 36 Boulevard Henri IV, Paris 4; tel: 42.72.32.11. Closed Monday, and Tuesday lunch. Open Sunday for brunch from noon to 3 P.M. Credit card: visa. Brunch menus at 95 and 135 francs. Menus at 130 and 150 francs, evenings only. A la carte, 145 to 220 francs per person, including service but not wine.

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澳洲美食：丰富而绝妙的搭配

此篇选自《国际先驱论坛报》（International Herald Tribune），作者Patricia Wells是一位女性撰稿人。

此稿发自巴黎，内容是介绍巴黎一家餐馆所提供的菜肴及美酒。文字轻松、亲切、生动。

这家餐厅有一个奇怪的名字：Woolloomooloo，很明显，它不是法语，也不是英语，因为作者一开始就介绍说这里的菜肴首先是澳大利亚风味的（Australian Cuisine），接着她告诉你即使你知道菜肴是澳大利亚风味的，你也不会知道菜单上那些菜的味道。Wooloomooloo 这个词是澳大利亚英语（Australian English），实际上后面明确指出它是那里土著部落居民（aboriginal）的词语。

在解释澳大利亚菜肴时，作者指出现代的澳大利亚菜肴实际上是集各邻国及澳大利亚不同民族菜肴之大成，而绝非纯澳洲的。

这很自然，澳大利亚是一个后起的国家。葡萄牙人在16世纪发现了这片大陆，接着荷兰人来到了西部及北部海岸，不久后南面的塔斯曼尼亚岛（Tasmania）被发现。接着而来的英国人库克（James Cook）是一名航海家和探险家。在1768－1771,1772－1775,1776－1779年他三次来到澳大利亚、新西兰及太平洋中的岛屿，此后从1788年开始英国大批地向这里运送罪犯……，当然，两次大战后，澳大利亚又多了来自欧亚各国的移民。 With a nod to the nation's British ancestry这一词组点出了这个集中了多国风味菜肴的餐厅当然也有英国风味的菜肴、点心。nod本来的意思是“点头”的意思，这里指没有忘记它的老本家。英语里有一个短语：have a nodding acquaintance with...意思是与某人只是点头之交。

It's one spot in town that you'll be treated to the entire panoply of wonderful wines...

这里有三个词值得注意。

第一个是panoply，其原意是全副甲胄，在这里的意思是“多种多样的”，是转意的用法。第二个是treat。to be treated to ...在这里的意思无非是“你能 品尝到……”。

在这里我们不妨看一下Collins CoBuild: Essential English Dictionary 有关此词的一些解释：释义⑤：If you give someone a treat, you buy or arrange something special for them which they will enjoy. e.g. Granny took us for tea at Lyons Corner House as a special treat.

e.g. Treat yourself to a new pair of shoes...

I was treated to lunch by the vice-president.

请看下面来自1962年10月版The Advanced Learner's Dictionary of Current English的有关例句：

定义：(7)

supply with (food, drink, entertainment) at one's own expense

e.g. treat one's friends to oysters and champagne （香槟酒)。

e.g. I shall treat myself to a good weekend holiday.

treat作名词的例子：

What a treat to get into the peace and quiet of the country!

e.g. It is a great treat for her to go to the opera.

这一段中第三个需要解释的是一个关于复数的问题，即wines。有些通常是不可数的名词在某些情况下可以加-s，在口语书中你一定见过two beers, two cokes（两杯啤酒，两罐可口可乐）这样的用法。

这里的wines当然不是两瓶酒，而是指产地、口味不同，酿制过程不同，在窖里存放时间长短不同，因而名字相异的各种佐餐美酒。请耐心看一下本文倒数第二段就清楚了。

下一段中作者首先对Wooloomooloo作了一个解释，接着她用两个形容词概括了澳大利亚人的民族性格。一个字是unpretentious，一个字是generous。后者不必作任何解释，前者可能大家不熟悉，它来自于动词pretend，但不是我们所熟悉的“假装”的意思。词典中关于pretend有多种释义。unpretentious是根据pretend发展而来的，一个人当官没有官架子，一个多次获奖的名人不以名人自居，很随和，就可以用unpretentious，意思是“不自夸，不矫饰，不自以为是”。在同一段里还有这样一句话，它要表达的意思是：如果你要找一种百分之百的正宗菜肴，你最好另去他处。 那么我们来看一下这个意思作者是如何表达的。

请看这一句：

Diners bent on finding a unified cuisine here will do better to go elsewhere.

这里的better是副词。will do better to 的口气比(you)'d better婉转一些。

文章接着介绍了这餐馆的菜肴：有polenta（大麦粥）。同是大麦粥，西方或中东地区餐馆的大麦粥有盐味或奶味，配以蔬菜末等佐料。也有spring rolls，但这里的春卷与中国的也不一样，是越南的制法和口味，春卷皮内包的是鸭片，是一种辛辣的开胃菜。

接着出现的a great classic可以理解为一种量很大的传统菜。说是菜吧，实际上西方人这种传统菜常常是他们的惟一食品，不需烹制，只须调配，而Caesar salad指的就是这种以生菜为主，拌以其它各种提味佐料的大盘或大玻璃碗的凉菜，即我们所说的沙拉，它的成分不是像我们想的以土豆为主的拌制凉菜。tangle指的是搅拌在一起的菜，a generous tangle of greens短语中的generous当然不会作“慷慨”解释，它意思是“量很足的”，而greens是指不同种类的绿叶菜。

这个句子的 主语又在哪里呢？仔细一看它是一句祈使句：......, try their Caesar salad......，里面包含了两个过去分词短语：一个是seasoned with......， 一个是tossed with.....。 garlic mayonnaise这一词组中mayonnaise一词来自法语，是我们熟知的沙拉酱，里面有拌蒜末的就称之为garlic mayonnaise。这一大碗绿叶菜里有意大利干酪(Parmesan)，有■鱼(anchovies)等我们所不熟悉的佐料。

下一段所提到的菜有用红色咖喱酱作调料的鸭腿，ultra-fiery是“非常辣”的意思。bathed in an ultra-fiery curry sauce告诉我们这鸭腿浸泡在辣味的调味酱(此处指咖喱酱)中。与它搭配的主食是一撮米饭，米饭里撒有茉莉花，散发着香味，all soothed with... 这个词组里的soothed是“缓和”的意思，这里当然是冲淡菜里的辣味。soothe 也可以与pain搭配，那就是缓解疼痛的意思。

下一段是介绍另一种菜，这种菜上来的时候是放在一个有盖的搪瓷盘里。这里的served是上菜的意思。

serve的用法还有serve coffee hot送上热咖啡；First come, first served。先到先受招待。Lunch is served now. 现在供应午饭了。What can we serve you with？你想吃点什么？你想点什么菜？从这些例子中可以看出中英文表达上的明显差别。

braised veal knuckle with preserved lemons and lentils (炖小牛蹄加柠檬片和小扁豆)， 而下面附加的半句指的是这道炖菜在春寒料峭的夜晚的餐厅里别有一番舒心温暖的感觉。